What it is and why it is genuinely worth the trip
Recco is a town of around 10,000 people on the Golfo Paradiso, a few kilometres from Camogli and Genoa. It is not Liguria's most famous village, has none of Portofino's glamour and lacks the global name recognition of the Cinque Terre. But it has something that no other place in the world can claim: Focaccia col Formaggio IGP. A European quality mark — the world's only one for a focaccia — that certifies this product can only be called by its full name if made in the municipalities of Recco, Camogli, Sori and Avegno, following a precise disciplinary specification.
The history of Recco's focaccia is ancient: the earliest written traces date to the 13th century, when Recco's Crusaders prepared it during the siege of Jerusalem. The recipe has remained extraordinarily simple: water, flour, extra-virgin olive oil and cheese — stracchino (crescenza), creamy and slightly tart. No yeast, no eggs, no additives. The dough is stretched paper-thin, almost transparent, and baked at very high heat in copper pans. The result is something you taste with your eyes before you ever take a bite.
The Festa della Focaccia, organised by the IGP Protection Consortium, is the annual celebration of this heritage. The historic bakeries of Recco — some of which have been run by the same family for three generations — open their doors and distribute thousands of free portions to visitors. This is not just a tasting: it is a collective story of identity, craftsmanship and local pride. Those arriving from outside quickly understand why Recco does not need to be Portofino to hold its place in the hearts of Ligurians.
The last Sunday of May is also ideal in terms of weather: the heat is not yet oppressive, the Riviera is in full spring bloom and the Golfo Paradiso offers colours and atmosphere that the summer season cannot replicate. Combining the festival with a weekend in Rapallo — 5 minutes by train — transforms a gastronomic event into a proper Ligurian mini-holiday.
What to expect in practice
The day unfolds mainly in Recco's central piazza and in the streets around the historic bakeries. Morning is the best time for shorter queues: the bakeries open early and the focaccia is at its most fragrant in the first batches. Free distribution continues throughout the day, but arriving in the late morning still guarantees finding a good variety. Participating bakeries are clearly signed — it is hard to get lost.
Beyond the free focaccia, Recco's restaurants offer dedicated menus and seasonal variations. It is a good opportunity to discover the different preparation styles of individual bakers — each bakery has its own technique, its own dough thickness, its own balance between cheese and pastry. Enthusiasts of the product can taste the differences clearly. Those arriving with no particular expectations simply find themselves eating something unforgettable.
