A night of candles on the sea: the most moving tradition in the Golfo Paradiso
Camogli has always had a special relationship with the sea. Not in the romantic sense tourists understand, but in the concrete, lived sense of a community that sent its men out across the water for centuries — sailors, fishermen, captains who left knowing they might never return. The Stella Maris grows from this: a collective act of faith, a tribute to those who did not come back and a prayer for those still at sea. On the first Sunday of August, when the sky has already darkened but the heat of summer still hangs in the air, hundreds of vessels gather in procession offshore, carrying candles that are then set adrift on the waves.
The tradition is as old as the village itself, but the modern form — with the official procession, the participation of civic authorities, choirs and collective silence — was formalised in 1924 by Don Nicolò Lavarello. Since then it has never been interrupted. The most touching moment comes when the candles are released onto the water: hundreds of small orange lights dancing on the waves in the dark, each placed in memory of a sailor or fisherman who never returned. It is hard to remain unmoved.
Photographically, this is one of the most spectacular events in Liguria. The light is challenging — night, fire, reflections on the water — but for those who manage to find a good vantage point the results are extraordinary. Photographers come from all over Italy. The seafront, the pier, the moored boats all become natural stages for watching the spectacle. Arriving early is essential: the best spots are taken at least an hour beforehand.
For anyone who has never seen it, the Stella Maris is one of those experiences that stays with you. It is not simply a folklore event or a village fair. It carries a quiet gravity felt even by those who do not know the village's history: the seafaring devotion of Camogli, distilled into one August night on the waters of the Golfo Paradiso.
How to make the most of the evening
The procession begins late in the evening, usually after 9 pm. Arriving in Camogli in the afternoon lets you enjoy the village while it is still quiet, eat at the harbour and find a spot on the seafront before the crowds arrive. Positions with a view over the open sea — the pier, the promenade heading north — give the best perspective for watching the candles float. Those lucky enough to follow the procession from a boat have a completely different and even more intimate experience. The village is beautiful in the evening even before and after the ceremony, and stays lively well into the night.
Return trains to Rapallo run until late at night. Always check timetables on trenitalia.com before you set off, especially on the day of the event when trains can be more crowded than usual.
